Doini Island, Papua New Guinea

Doini Island is a tropical paradise that is privately-owned.  There are just a handful of locals, a small resort, and an airstrip.  The island is made up of 1,000 hectares of incredible landscape, most of it unchartered territory.  Beautiful white beaches line its shores. All of us were hesitant about visiting this island. After seeing the "contaminated island" the day before, we were afraid that Doini Island would be the same.   We were pleasantly surprised at what we saw.

Natives from many of the surrounding islands came in boats to Doini Island  as we anchored  off shore.  School and church groups came and performed.  They had a sign and a donation bucket  asking for kina to improve their schools and to provide assistance through their churches.  Others came to sell their handmade items.  Both men and women, along with children, had things to sell.  No one pressured you to buy and no one followed you to buy what they were selling. We thought that this way of assisting the people may have been better.  We did not invade their villages.  They came to see us and to show us their  customs and items they made.  We spent about 45 minutes walking through the paths of where they performed and sold their items.  The children smiled as we gave them crayons.  We were thanked for the donations we gave.  Since this was the last island for us to visit, most people  donated whatever kina they had left to the schools and churches. 

We spent the rest of our time enjoying the beautiful beaches and snorkeling in the clear blue waters.  There wasn't much current to pull us away from shore.  The water was warm with areas of coral.  Man-made rock barriers marked the area where the water became very deep.  For the next hour we snorkeled and saw an abundance of colorful fish in the coral.  Suzie was the daring expert for finding the best places to snorkel.  After an hour, Rose and John watched from the beach as Suzie and I snorkeled for another hour.  

What a wonderful way to finish our last port of call.  We enjoyed all of the unique places we visited.  We learned so much about the people and their history.  The beauty of these exotic places and the people we met will never be forgotten.  When we left home, we wanted to escape the winter cold. Never did we expect to have the experiences we encountered.   We thought Papua New Guinea was just a place to find some sun and warmth.  We definitely are returning home with a much different prospect of these tropical islands. 

Kiriwina Island, Papua New Guinea

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Kiriwina is one of the most intact island cultures that reside in one of the world's most untouched islands.  It is located in Papua New Guinea's Milne Bay Province.  Kiriwina is the largest and by far the most populous of the Trobriand Islands.  In the matrilineal society women enjoy higher status than men. Also pigs are a I indicator of wealth.

Our view of this island was far different from all of the other islands.  We felt that this was a "contaminated " island that was caused byoutside people coming to their island and teaching them the ways of the outside world.  The people selling there items were mostly men and boys.  They wanted to barter with you and would follow you asking what was your best price.  Everything had a price.  Kids pushed you to take a picture with them and their turtle.  Men wanted you to pay to see their family skulls and bones.  They wanted money for you to touch their animal.  They were willing to take kina or Australian dollars.  They had to have been influenced by someone  who was teaching them how to sell.  The islands beauty seemed to disappear because of these "new founded business " natives. Since there were no banks on this island there was a person who would trade their Australian money into kina that could be used.....but there was a high price to pay.  

It seemed that so many of the children were forced into selling.  They would ride their boats to the wharf we were walking on to sell their wares or ask for money.  The island was beautiful with their large shade trees and crystal clear waters with white sandy beaches.  I don't believe we saw anyone asking for help for their schools or churches that was easily seen on the other islands. It was sad to see how these people were changed.  Hopefully this change will be to their benefit one day but all we saw were people whose smiles were disappearing and lacking happiness.  Their simple way of living seemed to be tarnished. 

Rabaul, Papua New Guinea

As we approach Simpson Harbor, volcanoes surround us and reminds us that we are sailing the "rim of fire".  This harbor was once filled with up to 100 Japanese ships, including battleships, heavy cruisers, destroyers, and merchant vessels.  It was from this harbor that the famed  Tokyo Express raced south to resupply Guadalcanal.  In January 1942 the Japanese forces overwhelmed a small Australian garrison. Realizing the strategic value and location, the Japanese established Rabaul as their most powerful base in the southwest Pacific. Thanks to the Australians and Americans, the Japanese were stopped in Rabaul.

We spent the morning visiting the various reminders of this tragic time.  Our van once again travelled over bumpy roads, often weaving from one side to another.  The dirt from the road  often covered the roads and trees.  Our first stop was the Japanese Barge Tunnel.  The tunnel was built into a mountainside to hide barges from the Allied air attacks. Three rusting barges remained inside the tunnel.   We also passed a rusting crane that was used to load the barges.

We then travelled to Kokopo, the capital city.  We past grocery stores, hardware shops, and other markets.  People often lined the roads, waving to us as we passed.  Ships only arrive about once a month so it brings lots of excitement to the town.   Kids smiled with excitement each time we waved back to them.  We spent about 20 minutes at the Kokopo Local Market.  So many people were selling peanuts and other fresh vegatables.  We also entered a building where fish were being sold.  The last building contained merchandise that people had made...bracelets, baskets.......and beautiful cotton fabric that the women had made.  It didn't take us long for Rose and me to find fabric.  It was the best find of the cruise.  

Next we headed to the Kokopo War Relics and Museum.  Old tanks, guns, engines pulled out of the bay.  Bombs, motorcycles, a plane were displayed. It was very interesting to see these WWII relics.

We also visited Admiral Yamamoto's bunker #1. This was the place he was planning to direct the invasion of Australia. The bunker had many narrow steps and low ceilings.  Writings and maps could be seen on the walls.  It was extremely hot and very little air as John walked to the top of the inside of the bunker. There was also a historical museum in Rabaul that contained clippings from newspapers and other small objects.

As we approached the Bitapaka War Cemetery, the beauty and peaceful nature of the Cemetary reminded us of the Cemetery for those who lost their lives at the beaches of Normandy.  It was much smaller but everything was landscaped and trimmed.  The upkeep of the Cemetery was paid for by the Australian government. There was a section for the Australians who lost their lives; a section for Indians who were brought here to be slave labor and a section for Those killed in World War I soldiers.

Mother Nature has also had a hand in Rabaul's violent history.  A cataclysmic explosion occurred 1400 years ago that formed a huge caldera into which the Pacific poured which formed the harbor of Rabaul.  The 1994 eruption buried the city two meters of ash. 

During the afternoon we visited the Rabaul Volcanological observatory.  As we climbed to the observatory we passed many tunnels where the Japanese held their prisoners who were building the various tunnels that were needed. At the observatory John asked the person who was in charge many questions. The gentleman was really surprised that someone knew what the screens were showing.  Tavurvur, one of the five volcanoes, continues to huff and puff as the regions seismic activity is measured even more conscientiously than ever. 

We drove close to the base of the volcano where the Rabual Hot Springs were located. You could easily see the steam and feel the heat from the springs. We were told how the Japaneses would swim in the water where the springs flowed. The hot springs temperatures reached 78 C but the large body of water was cool enough to swim in. It was said that if you swam in these waters your life would be extended. 

Our tour provided us with so much history.  The people on this island were darker skinned with fuzzy hair, and very friendly.  They had been isolated from Western influence, so isolated that the very first wheel ever seen was a propeller of an aircraft. We will remember the people waving and shouting  "ha-lo" on the roads, in the market places, and by their homes. Our guide said they all want to come and see the strange "while people" who have come from the big white ship. These memories can't be forgotten.  

That evening as we sat and had our evening hot chocolate we covered the table with all of our beautiful fabric.  Each fabric brought great memories of the places we have been and the sights we have seen.  But, most of all, the beauty of the simple life of the people of Papua New Guinea.